Such a pity that I have such an inconsistent wifi signal here in Italy!

I have been taking lots of lovely photos and have been dreaming up lots of sewing and knitting projects to begin when I am at home, but otherwise I am not in a position to post much. I can’t wait to share my photos and summer projects when I have proper Internet access again. On the whole though I think it’s a healthy thing to unplug from the computer, at least for me. Between my job and hobbies I spend twelve hours a day plugged into the computer at home, as we know…

One really nice thing that I have been doing here (besides working on my Italian, taking a drawing class in an amazing studio, and eating, of course!) is that I’ve started running again. I’m super super happy about this as I’m already up to an hour and fifteen minutes without any trouble with my vertigo. Running used to be such an important part of my life that it’s nice to have the freedom to do it again. I’ve even been feeling some competitive urges once again, perhaps as a result of the fact that I’ve been passionately following the Giro d’Italia (Italy’s Tour de France). Although the sport of cycling is generally suspect with respect to drug use and I feel that the marathon remains more of a “pure” sport, the Giro is something really cool and invigorating to watch.

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Ciao from Florence and Sewaholic’s Cambie dress

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As you might have guessed from my silence, I am in Italy right now. My boyfriend, who is Italian, is caring for his elderly parents. His dad has advanced dementia and is still being cared for at home without assistance, hence the situation is difficult. I took five weeks of unpaid leave from my job to at least spend time with him here and do some touring around the area. I love it here, so there is no suffering on my part.

Unfortunately though the wifi signal in my rented apartment is very weak. I therefore have very limited posting ability. I do want to share my new love, however: Sewaholic patterns. I had some Liberty cotton that G bought me for Christmas and I found the perfect pattern in the Cambie. It is so well drafted and the sizes are graded by the inch and not two and so it was easy to choose a size. Her patterns are designed for the pear-shaped woman, which I am not really, so I will have to play a bit with future efforts. With the full skirt and light cotton I left the pattern as is. What a lovely project and I was delighted to discover that the designer is Canadian. We have not historically been players in the design world generally so I am excited to see so many small companies producing quality products cropping up!! Exciting!!

I will try to post some photos of Florence and other locations if I have the chance. They’ll be taken with my BB, however, as I can’t transfer photos from my Canon while I am here.

Happy Spring!

Sewing first steps

Photograph | Sewing class, Roberval Convent, Lake St. John, QC, about 1906 | VIEW-4038

Sewing class, Roberval Convent, Qc, about 1906. Notman Archive, McCord Museum, Montreal.
I made a skirt this weekend (Burda 126, 7/2010), which was an interesting exercise in learning old techniques anew. I had to rip the back out and redo the inverted pleat/sort of box pleat effect in the back because the waistband piece didn’t fit (I checked my measurements and it seems the pattern was wrong, not me, but that’s not important. I didn’t do the greatest job with the zipper on the left-hand side, but I fixed it post-making. All told a practical make! It’s kind of wrinkly because it’s in stretch cotton and I’ve been wearing it. The back uses more fabric than the front, which is why the seams are angling to the front when it’s laid flat:

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I was reasonably happy with my welt pockets given that I hadn’t made any in 20 years!

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I know – it needs a good pressing. But the back is quite cute and it’s very comfy and airy to wear. It falls to the knee.

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When I make another one, I’ll buy more thread so that I can finish the topstitching on the waistband (which I didn’t do very well!). The next time I think I’ll make a navy blue one. As it’s a summer skirt and the cotton sufficiently heavy, I didn’t bother to line it this time, when normally I would (I like things to be finished properly).

I’m also whipping up a little baby sweater for my Italian friends, using a Lisa Richardson pattern…only because I have no idea about the sizes of babies! I ordered the Rowan merino silk online and I must say that the yellow is a bit bright for me, but overall I think it’s a cute little sweater for cool evenings.

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Sunday sweater inspiration: Spring cycling in woollens

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Lady cyclist, Yorkton, SK, 1913-19, Glenbow Archives, Calgary, AB.

I wish she were smiling, but the girl in the photo makes me smile at least. I like that she has her sleeves tentatively rolled under her knitted vest, and a jaunty cap to boot. It’s possibly more of an autumn ensemble, but it could also be the sort of thing one might wear to ride in an extremely tentative Canadian spring! (I understand this very well, as it snowed very lightly here yesterday. I wore my parka to walk to the local fabric store for some supplies.)

I might have cycling on the brain right now, as when I’m in Italy I will do a little bit of cycling with an Italian cyclist friend. I’m excited, as this will be the first summer since my vertigo started a couple of years ago that I think I will be able to train again. I miss being outside.

That said, I did some sewing this weekend and am proud of my persistence. After a couple of significant mishaps I made a pretty decent and wearable cotton skirt with pockets. It’s slowly coming back to me, but I do need to improve some of my technique. I spent quite a bit of time with a seam ripper today, especially after I discovered that the skirt back was a bit too big for the waist band (I ended up deepening the darts/inverted pleat in back and it all worked out in the end). I also could have done a better job on my topstitching. All told, however, the skirt fits well and there’s nothing very obviously horrible about it! That’s something! (I suppose that one can’t go very far wrong with loden green stretch cotton.) (Photo tomorrow.)

Sewing realities – 1875

Dairy | Diary of Henriette Dessaulles | M980.204.1

I came across this touching archival photo just a little while ago. It’s the text of a diary entry by a girl from a wealthy Ste-Hyacinthe (Quebec) family who later went on to become an author (Henriette Dessaulles (1860-1946)). This entry, written at age 15, refers to a conversation with the family seamstress (translation taken from the McCord Museum website at the link above, with one small correction):

[October 23, 1875] Rosalie, our little seamstress, (…) is always alone in the sewing room and yesterday (…), as I was skipping past her, she said: “You’re looking quite pale, mamzelle Henriette, “are you tired?” “I’m more frustrated, Rosalie!” “And with what?” “Oh with myself, I suppose!” “But you’re very fortunate, mamzelle!” “Me fortunate?” “But of course! You have good parents, everything you could ever want, you’re rich, you live in a fine house, you have people waiting on you hand and foot, you have a good education! Not many people are as fortunate as you.” I didn’t reply immediately, for what could I say to her? “And you, Rosalie, I asked finally, “aren’t you fortunate?” “Please excuse me, mamzelle, she replied, “I’m quite content with my fate.” “You live with your family?” “No, they’re all dead. I rent a small room where I live all alone, but not for long since I work here every day from seven in the morning until seven at night. When I leave here in the evening I go to the church to pray, and go straight to bed when I get home because I have to be up at five in the morning!” “And Sundays?” “I spend a lot of time in church and, from time to time, I write to my nephew who is a vicar in the United States.” “And you’re content like this?” “Yes, I perform my duties as best I can for the Good Lord, and I know that He will do the same for me.

Sewing comfort

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Mod dress with roll collar, not quite finished – side seams are only basted right now and the dress needs a hem. Otherwise, it’s lined and I’ve put in self bias bindings. Oh and of course it needs a good pressing!!

Before I go on, I must say that my heart goes out to the people affected in the marathon tragedy. I was absolutely horrified when I saw the news and the details that have emerged since have only revealed the situation to be worse than one could have imagined. I ran Boston years ago and I well remember what a joyful event it can be.

I just want to say this: Although I don’t always agree with certain aspects of the American economic culture, I consider Americans to be great neighbours and friends and admire many of their qualities. I worked in Washington D.C. for a year when I was in my 20s and I have wonderful memories of the incredible, warm, hospitable, bright, creative and generous people I met there. I always enjoy my trips to the U.S. and also meeting Americans abroad. Furthermore, I try to offer a more balanced view of Americans when I encounter the common negative stereotypes of them that are widely believed in Europe.

Anyhow. Others have said it much more eloquently than I.

So…sewing…I sewed this weekend. I went completely crazy (OK, not completely crazy) and not only bought fabric but a serger at the fabric store.  I really did not want to spend so much money this weekend, because I’m leaving for Italy quite soon, but I did anyhow! (It was half price.)

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I loved sewing the nearly-complete dress on the table above (and I even washed the linen first!). First, it’s a vintage pattern and it’s well-written. I learned to sew by trial and error in the late 1980s, with a little bit of guidance from my mom, and spent many hours poring over the giant pattern books in fabric stores, so patterns like this one bring back a flood of memories.

I made quite a few mistakes with this dress, which is to be expected given how rusty I am and how much I didn’t really know about sewing in the first place. I completely forgot to cut the notches into the linen (but did remember to do so with the lining fabric). I didn’t make a muslin for this, given that it’s a mod dress and meant to be fairly loose anyhow (I did measure all of the pattern pieces and think about the final measurements beforehand!). I was surprised to discover that even the 34 bust size is too big for me, however, so I’ve taken in the back darts slightly and the side seams slightly as well. Overall the fit is fine, both with and without a slim belt, and in fact will probably be perfect for summer when I won’t want a dress sticking to me. I’m just going to cut it to the 32 when I make another one, perhaps in navy blue or a chambray (overall the cut is quite good on me, especially around the shoulders and neck).

So I am so excited about sewing now that I bought three more vintage patterns online today! I’d love to have the patterns by Friday so that I could consider making a dress with Gianni’s Liberty fabric, but I want to take my time with that one. Sewing, here I come this summer!

(I’m never going to give up knitting, even though I’m taking a small detour right now, and in fact will take some Rowan kidsilk haze with me to Italy to make some sort of a simple garment while I’m there.)

I’m feeling some stress and worry right now over a few probably inconsequential issues, and the excitement/anxiety associated with my trip, but on the whole I really can’t complain. This crafting stuff is truly, truly good medicine.

Saturday inspiration: Vintage post cards – Italia; Eataly Bologna!

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I often am inspired by my “ladies” on vintage cards. I wonder who they were and what their dreams might have been.

This is an unused post card, but the back of the card says “Premiata Fotografia, Coffredo Osti, via Indipendenza 29, Bologna”  I would date it at 1910, perhaps?

This one I love, and although I can only read small bits of the writing on the back, it was sent to Bologna:

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I’m eagerly looking forward to returning to Bologna to eat. Specifically, Eataly Bologna is AMAAAAAZZZZING. “Eataly” is part of the slow food movement in Italy, in fact if I’m not mistaken it was initiated by the founder of Slow F0od Italy, and now is branching out to various locations in Italy, including Florence). The idea generally is to collect the “best” seasonal Italian products from the various regions. You can both buy the products themselves and eat in the co-located cafe. It’s also very affordable.

I’m not a foodie in the strictest sense, in that I’d buy crafting materials before pink salt, to be sure, but I love to eat and eat well. Gianni is my perfect partner in crime in this regard. We absolutely loved eating in Bologna, with the fact that Eataly Bologna is situated in a bookstore adding to its charm! I think we’ll probably take the train from Firenze to Bologna in May for a walk and a meal!

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The following is pretty much my favourite cheese ever (and that’s saying something, as I loooooove cheese – my mother used to take me on dedicated trips to the “Maison du fromage” in Toronto when I was a little girl). All you need to know is that the topping is grapes that have been pressed to make Barolo wine. It’s from Piedmont, Italy. Honestly, cheese royalty. Mmmm…

That was a detour! I’m off to the sewing store to buy some lining fabric and a zipper for my orange linen dress. Ciao!

Who are you? (A books and libraries post, but also is about sewing later on!)

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I know I’m pretty much the most “random” blogger out there, but as I am writing mostly for myself at this point, trying to decide on a point of view, I’ll take my liberties!

I had a wooooonnnnddderful conversation yesterday with a new friend. She’s a serious woman: an Ivy-League grad AND a London School of Econom-cs grad. We’re both trained “rationals,” so to speak. But each time we chat we end up talking about everything from spirituality to psychology to feminism to literature. She’s a bit of a lone wolf, I think, a bit like I have been, not because she doesn’t get along with people (like me, she’s gentle and pretty easy to get along with, I would think). The thing is that we’re both serious introverts. We’re both Myers-Briggs INFs. She’s a J, and I’m P, but I’m not a strong P, i.e. have elements of the J. Honestly, in some ways I feel as though she’s my lost twin.

Yesterday she dropped by (I was making copious graphs with thousands of little data points, which makes what ensued even more hilarious) and, as usual, we started talking about literature. That brought us to talking about Bath, and then we started talking about libraries (which involved comparing all of the various libraries we have visited in various corners of the world)…which led to it slipping out that although I’m an economist by training, I once also completed a graduate degree in library science/archival studies, just for the love of it. (It wasn’t the best use of money, really, as I’ve never worked in the field, but I’m an “experience” person and NOT at the root a rational at all (I had it trained into me)…let’s just chalk it up to that. :) )

Her immediate reaction? Ohhhhhh….I have ALWAYS wanted to be a librarian! I have thought so many times that I should do an MLIS. Say what?

I know it’s not a very exciting revelation that someone else wanted to have something to do with libraries (I had wanted for a brief moment to be an archivist rather than a librarian, only because I love being around old things more than anything in the world, and old combined with books (which are among the most beautiful objects ever created, in my view), was something that made sense to me). I even studied book restoration and paper making, which are closely allied. In the end, though, my analytical training and my desire to have a more secure career won me back to where I am now. But it was an unfinished love affair…

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I have always felt that libraries are a sanctuary, and having visited a number of wonderful countries I’ve seen some gorgeous libraries in my day. When I was a kid we moved quite a few times for a period of time and I found refuge in the libraries of my new schools. In the community, too, I found a home at the public libraries in our communities. Seeing how much I loved books, the librarians became my friends and always had a new read to suggest. I was cleaning some books out of my spare room the other day and as I went through the books that I’ve kept after many many moves I see reflected in each one an important moment in my intellectual and personal development. In them, too, I see all of the questions I have always had about who I want to be, and why oh why must I choose just one thing to be? I now have a Kindle as well, that is full to the brim with works that have fixed my soul at one time or another. I want to read so many things that I will never get to in a lifetime.

This little stroll down the libraries memory lane, which, frankly, is something I almost completely forget about myself, until some random moment brings it to the forefront again, came on the exact day that I was also reconnecting with my interest in sewing.

When I was in my late teens and early 20s I learned to sew so that I could have the clothes that I wanted but could not afford. I sewed a lot, and thereby learned a great deal about how sewing patterns work. I made some pretty awful and ill-fitting things, because I was too lazy to find out how to make and finish things properly, although eventually I developed some skill by trial and error, and certainly an understanding of my own body shape, and made some reasonably complex and interesting things. I’ve always loved clothing and even from childhood was crazily sensitive to fabric and quality. My mother has always said that I have champagne taste, which I know drove her crazy but which I have come to understand is exactly right. If I wear something the fabric has to be a quality fabric. I can discern the exact composition of most fabrics from across the room. I just know when a salesperson is trying to sell me something that is crappy.

That’s all to say that I really don’t know why I stopped sewing. It just makes sense to sew: You can carefully choose exactly the materials that you want, and fit something to exactly your style, and learn and grow and be connected to what you are doing and wearing at the same time. Like my books, that each mark a moment in my neverending stream of pursuits and secret dreams, and each of the sweaters I’ve knitted and cannot get rid of under any circumstances, sewing just makes sense.

I was thinking this morning that I should have talked to my grandmother about sewing. I don’t remember her sewing, but I know she knew how, as I know that she made my mother’s wedding dress and I think some of her engagement clothing. I suspect it might have been because my grandmother had both arthritis and lupus, and given that playing the piano was her main event, she restricted her craft activities principally to spinning and weaving. I also wonder if it might have been because my grandmother and I were always strong personalities (I remember her once telling me that there were too many chiefs and not enough indians in the room when we were both in it, if you’ll excuse the outmoded expression that was used widely in the 70s).

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My mother (far right), my grandmother, and my great-grandparents, probably in the church basement, at my mother’s engagement, I think. I remember anyhow that she said her engagement dress was made with pink and white striped fabric, so I think this is the one. Unfortunately, the pic is a bit damaged!

So maybe I dropped sewing because I didn’t have or didn’t think I had anyone to teach me. My grandmother died when I was 23, anyhow, which is another reason, and my mother literally loathes sewing, which I’ve mentioned before (I honestly think she might break out in hives on the sight of a bobbin). I even remember that I made a pretty nice jacket in a pale blue jacquard that I found at an upholstery store, and then when I was moving back to Canada from Australia I gave it away to someone. Just like that. And that was that. The only thing I have that remains of my earlier sewing activity is the black coatdress that I last wore at my grandmother’s funeral. When I think of my grandmother’s funeral I always smile, fortunately, because so many people came out of the wood work from my grandmother’s early life, long before I was born, who told me roll-on-the-floor stories about her…worth the price of admission, for sure.

That was definitely a tangent. So I suppose this is all to say that I love knitting, like a sister or a friend. She has always been with me and she always will. At the same time, I’m finding myself increasingly drawn to idea of connecting with the sewing community. I discovered, for example, that a blogger whose work I started reading a couple of years ago but who then promptly took a sabbatical, the Selfish Seamstress , has been back blogging for a while! Her return passed right by me!

I absolutely adore her writing, projects and quirky sarcasm. She does, however, make me feel incredibly sloth-like. I believe she has a full-time academic or at least professional job, seems to travel a fair bit, and makes at least the better part of her wardrobe, beautifully, by hand. Her writing is, of course, a dream. If you sew at all, I highly recommend that you check out her site (and take a look at the gorgeous wedding dress she recently sewed for herself). I would love to find a copy of that pattern!!

I’m also quite inspired by Jorth, whose blog brings me back to living in Australia, and whose sewing, writing and energy are always lovely.

As I mentioned the other day I’ve also recently discovered Tilly, who has a terrific voice and a great blog. Through Tilly I discovered Did You Make That? And oh my, there are countless others (A Dress a Day, Gertie, etc. etc.).

So what am I going to make? I’m definitely not going to abandon my knitting. I have a gazillion projects ready to start. I think the sewing will complement and nourish the knitting. They can work hand in hand.

So…for starters I have this burnt orange linen and vintage pattern (I’ll make the orange, sleeveless version on the pattern cover (Simplicity 6533)):

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I developed a thing for mod dresses last year, goodness knows why, and something about the sassy orange number caught my fancy. I think it will be nice, and definitely a simple trial make. I just need to buy some lining and other notions and I am off to the races on that one. That might be my project for the weekend, although I’d like to make a skirt.

My second big project, and a more serious undertaking, is to make something with this wonderful Liberty cotton shirting fabric. It’s a bit too lightweight I think, for the pattern I have with it, so I’d have to line rather than face the bodice in the minimum, but I’m going to give this more thought. My boyfriend gave me the fabric for Christmas specifically to make a summer dress, but apart from a simple shirt dress or sun dress I just don’t have the perfect project in mind. Suggestions are welcome! (The purchase of the Simplicity 1803 pattern was inspired by Jorth, as linked above.) (Actually, funny story: I was with him when he bought the fabric in a somewhat snooty store in Florence. The salesladies didn’t seem to have much faith that I would be able to make something myself without ruining the fabric. Let’s prove them wrong!)

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I have many Liberty fabric shirts in my wardrobe, as I love love love the patterns. I’m crazy for pattern and colour, in fact. My boyfriend knows how much I love blues as well. Pretty, no?

Well that’s about it! I’ll finish the blue sweater this weekend and then will hopefully post a photo of that. It snowed today in Ottawa, but as it’s simply not possible for me to wrap my mind around wet snow and sleet in April (even though it happens almost every year), I am going to end with this photo of my grandparents’ cottage on a sunny lake when I was a wee thing.

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The blue sweater, in progress, folded over (just so you know it actually exists!) (bust:33):

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Monday treat

This arrived in the mail today:

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I have to admit that while I’ve admired the blog and writing of Kate Davies for quite some time, my personal taste/style differs quite a bit from the designer’s. As a result, I waited to buy her book. She recently posted some modified versions of her Ursula cardigan (my favourite pattern in the collection) on her blog (easily found on Ravelry, or by googling…not sure how she responds to linking), which inspired me to take the plunge.

I honestly have to say that it was an excellent purchase. The book has been prepared beautifully, the instructions are clear, and the overall tone strikes a nice balance between academic and chatty. I am very impressed. When I EVER get through the massive queue of planned and imagined projects that I have in my life, I will definitely put aside some time to make an Ursula cardigan. Now I just have to decide on the colour scheme!

(I suspect I’m preaching to the choir, as any knitters who stumble upon this will no doubt be familiar with Kate’s work.)

 

 

 

 

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